Before we brought home our first puppy we read several books about how to train puppies.  We wanted to learn as much as we could about puppies before diving into puppy ownership.  Now over 8 years later we continue to read books about puppies and dog training.

We rescued Linus from the shelter, fostered dozens of puppies and dogs, raised 4 guide dog puppies, and puppy sat countless dogs and puppies.  Maybe we’re not experts, but we do think we know a little more than the average bear.

We get hundreds of questions every month about puppies, dogs, and training.  Over the years we’ve kept the answers in the comment section, but starting this year (2013) we’re going to highlight questions and answer it right here on the blog!  Our hope is to build a resource section and help answer some of the most common puppy training questions.

So without further adieu…

How Can I Get My Dog To Stop Peeing In Her Crate?

Dublin didn’t have any potty problems during crate training

We hear this question several times a month in it’s different variations.  Maybe your dog is peeing in her crate or maybe your dog is pooping in her crate either way your question is probably what can I do to get my dog to stop having accidents in her crate.

The original crate training question we received this week is below:

Question

“Hi I am crate training my 9 week boxer puppy. She is peeing and pooing in the crate overnight and then whines to be let out. what should I do if she doesn’t cry when she has to go?”

Answer:

You have to remember that a puppy as young as yours (around 9 weeks of age) probably does not yet have full control of her bladder.  She may not always know when she has to potty, but there are some things you can do in your situation.

Your goal is to not allow your puppy to potty in the crate anymore.  At some point in time she learned that it was okay to potty in the crate.  If she’s having accidents in the crate during the day and at night you need to make sure you reduce the amount of time she spends in the crate and over time incrementally extend the amount of time she spends in her crate.

Lets start off by speculating as to why your puppy is peeing/pooping in her crate.  There could be several reasons why a puppy has an accident while in crate:

• Crate size is too big.  If you’re crate is too big then your puppy will often times use one side to potty (her bathroom) and the other side to sleep (her bedroom).  A crate should only be large enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around any bigger than that an you might have a few potty accidents.
• Before you brought home your puppy she learned to potty in her crate.  In general puppies will not potty where they sleep, but there could be reasons why your puppy learned to do this before you brought her home.  If you bought from a pet store (please don’t buy from pet stores as the majority of these puppies come from puppy mills) your puppy probably learned to potty where she sleeps.  The same could be true if you purchased from an irresponsible breeder.  Responsible breeders will often times start potty training their pups before they go home with their new families.  If you adopted your puppy may have learned to potty in there kennel or other sleeping area.  You never really know, but sometime in her past she may have learned to potty in her crate.
• She has a bladder infection or some kind of health issue.  A trip to the veterinarian may be in order.  You might want to consider this as an option if your puppy is having unusual potty accidents.

Basic Crate And Potty Training

Make sure you read through these two articles:

• How To Potty Train A Puppy
• Crate Training Puppies

Since your puppy is peeing/pooping in the crate overnight without any whining to alert you then you should consider setting your alarm clock 2-3 times spread out through the night, wake up, take your puppy to her potty spot, have her potty, then take her right back to bed.

Another thing you should do to help avoid future puppy potty accidents in crate is thoroughly wash your crate using an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle (aff link).  Puppies like to potty in the same place where they went before.  If she can smell the urine in the crate then she might go there again.  Moving forward, anytime she has an accident make sure you thoroughly clean the crate again.

If you’re putting blankets or towels in the crate I would consider removing these.  Puppies usually like going potty on soft surfaces as opposed to hard surfaces.

As mentioned earlier make sure you have the right size crate.  If you bought a large crate to allow your puppy to grow into it I would either purchase a smaller, proper sized crate or use a divider to make the crate the correct size.

Keep your puppy on a consistent feeding schedule.  Try to make sure you feed your puppy at the same times every day.  You’ll notice a consistent feeding schedule = a consistent potty schedule.

You should start keeping a daily puppy potty schedule to keep track of every time your puppy pees, poops, eats, and drinks water.  You’ll notice that your puppy is very predictable as to when she potties in relation to the times she eats, drinks, plays, etc.

Make sure you feed your puppy at least a couple hours before you put her to bed for the night.

Make sure you take your puppy out to potty (and make sure she goes) right before you put her in her crate for the night.

Talk To Your Veterinarian And Local Dog Trainer

It’s always a good idea to speak with your local professionals.  If you don’t already have a local veterinarian or dog trainer then you should start doing some research to find some good ones in your area.  Having a good vet and trainer will be a great resource for you and your dog today and in the future.

You should also consider enrolling in a puppy kindergarten which will give you a chance to socialize your puppy, learn basic obedience, and have a professional dog trainer to ask questions.  Not only that, but you’ll find that you may be experiencing similar frustrations with your puppy as others in the group.  It always feels better when you realize that you are not the only one experiencing these puppy training and behavior problems

I hope this helps to answer your puppy training question.

What about everyone else out there?  Have you had any problems with your crate training?  Did your puppy used to potty in her crate?  If so, tell us what you did to solve the problem.

Post from: Puppy Training

How Can I Get My Dog To Stop Peeing In Her Crate?

Source: Puppy in Training

I thought about the book and the test recently, and it raised some issues for me, including how we value animals (and why we feel the need to rank animal intelligence), and how my own view has changed toward dogs and myself as a dog mom.

Soon after I bought the book, I tackled the pages and put my pooch to the test, wondering whether I had either a canine Einstein or maybe just a smarter-than-average dog sharing my life. Miller designed the IQ test as a yardstick for measuring the intelligence of the domestic dog population in general.

In the process, I learned a bit about myself and my attitude as a dog mom. It was during this period I stopped calling myself a “dog owner” and progressed into “dog mom.”

Miller writes, “The test is meant to be accurate, but above all, entertaining and amusing to take.” Your dog is given a series of things to do. You, as the dog mom or dad, assess and score based on the provided system.

The layers of testing

The markers to asses dog intelligence are pretty much in line with human IQ tests. The areas include memory (such as what your dog does when you reach for the leash), vocabulary (I always wondered how many words my dog knew — it turns out more than 100), verbal apprehension (such as coming when called), perception (detecting the mood of the human parent), and spatial ability (judging distance and speed when tossed a ball or toy).

Some of the test questions made me laugh out loud. One was, “How do you think your dog would spend its free time if it [were] human?” We’re given an assortment of choices — organizing events, eating out, and watching television are among them. Portions of the test are highly subjective, to be sure.

The test provides different points for each answer. At the end of the test, you add up the points — you’ve got a number, and your dog has an intelligence quotient.

How my Brandy scored

In researching this story, I found Brandy’s old veterinary records. I have no idea why I kept them, but perhaps a piece of her still remains. To be honest, I couldn’t find my old copy of The Dog IQ Test, but I did find her score filed with the vet records. When we took the test in 1996, she was 3 years old; it seems like a lifetime ago. She scored in the upper quotient of intelligence.

The book also tests the IQ of the dog owner. Categories for owners include “doting,” “congenial,” “sensible,” and “demanding.” The author then recommends breeds depending on owner temperament. I was “sensible” and “doting,” so no surprise there.

So, why am I talking about a book I read 17 years ago? When I found Brandy’s score, I thought about purchasing it again so I could test my dog, Dexter. Then I realized I already know all I need to know about him, and I would prefer not to assign a number or a label to my pooch.

There are no dumb dogs

This brings me to the idea of “dumb dogs.” It irks me to no end when I hear someone say, “That’s a dumb dog.” Today, I feel more adept at how to respond to such a statement. After all, I’ve evolved since I read the book, too. I know better, so I do better, as Oprah says.

Here are a few snappy comebacks I highly recommend when “That’s a dumb dog” gets tossed within earshot:

“Did your dog take the IQ test, and have you proven that?”

“They said the same thing about Lassie, and look how far she got.”

And my personal favorite: “No such thing as dumb dogs, only dumb people!”

Of course, some people simply do not deserve a response.

Would you ever test your dog’s IQ? Where do you think your dog would rank? Does it even matter? Does the idea of a dog IQ test make you mad? Let me know in the comments!

Source

And I was right.

But I also didn’t see the whole picture. Traveling with my dog hasn’t just been wonderful because of snuggles and companionship. It has also been wonderful for a few reasons that I never expected.

1. Traveling with a dog makes me feel safe

As a woman traveling alone, having a dog along (even a pint-sized one) makes me feel secure. This is especially true when I rent apartments, which I often do, because on the off chance that someone did try to break in, I know that Luna would alert me. She’s not a day-to-day barker, but when someone new is coming up the stairs, you better believe she makes herself heard.

Even more unexpected, I feel safer having her with me as I’m exploring the sites of a new city. Because it seems much less likely that pickpockets or scam artists would target what appears to be a local out walking her dog, not only because a local probably isn’t carrying her valuables around with her on her walk, but also because a dog might bark or bite.

Which brings me to the second unexpected benefit of traveling with my dog …

2. Traveling with a dog makes me look and feel like a local

When I’m out with Luna, I can’t help but make friends. The little old ladies on the Paris Metro pick her up and kiss her face. The other little old ladies waiting for the bus in Belgium ask her name and coo at her. Tourists constantly stop and ask me for directions, which I frequently can’t help with, and then, when they realize I’m not a local, want to know the whole story — how is it that I have my fuzzy little best friend along for the ride?

Having a dog with me, I’m immediately seen as someone who belongs, a local, a contributor to the city’s culture and economy. I’m seen as friendly and approachable. I’m seen as someone who wants to be part of the city — not just snap a few shots and be on her way.

Even better, though, I also feel like a local. Whether I’m walking Luna through Paris or Perugia, Italy, I feel grounded. I feel like I belong. I feel like we’re part of the story, part of the landscape — not just observers. Luna, like magic, makes every landscape feel like home.

Which brings me to my third unexpected benefit.

3. Traveling with a dog forces me to keep a routine and eliminate jet lag

When I arrive in Paris or Rome or Edinburgh after a long flight, I’m exhausted. And I find jet lag hard to deal with — there’s no hopping up the next morning ready to take on the world. Oh, no; that’s not me.

But now that I travel with a dog, I’m compelled to get up, to have a routine, and to see the city I’ve traveled hundreds or thousands of miles to see.

How does my dog accomplish all that? By needing daily walks and twice-daily feedings, by waking me up if I try to oversleep, and by forcing me to walk outside and remember that I’m in Tuscany or the Black Forest or the Alps. And as soon as I walk those few blocks to the dog park, I remember how new and interesting and different of a place I’m in, and I’m motivated to explore some more.

In summary: Traveling with my dog has brought me unending joy. Recently, someone asked me who my best travel buddy has been over the years. After all, I’ve been to more than 25 countries on six continents. I’ve traveled with friends, family, strangers, and often by myself. I think they thought I’d go on a rant about what makes a great travel buddy.

Instead, I smiled and answered without hesitation: my dog. Hands down. Absolutely. No question: my dog.

Gigi Griffis is a writer and humorist with a penchant for snuggly puppies, new places, and Italian cooking. In May 2012, she sold her stuff and took to the road with a growing business and a pint-sized pooch. You can read all about her adventures on her travel blog, and she’d love to be friends on Facebook. 

Have you traveled with your dog? What unexpected joys and benefits have you found? What surprises you most about being a dog owner in a foreign city?

Source

Just in case you’re joining us late we started working on Linus’ dog leash aggression at the beginning of the month and posted our goals and first week results here:

• Solve Your Dog Leash Aggression Problems In 30 Days
• Solving Linus’ Dog Leash Aggression Problems In 30 Days – Week #1

So how did our week go?  Did the Thundershirt help with Linus’ leash aggression?

Does The Thundershirt Really Work With Dog Leash Aggression?

Linus wearing his Thundershirt next to his pal Stetson.

Last week we did a day-by-day journal, but I wasn’t too keen on that kind of post and found that it got a little bit wordy and repetitive.  This time around I’m just going to give you the updates on how we progressed or regressed with Linus.

We actually made 3 changes in this weeks walking routines:

1. As we mentioned earlier Linus wore his Thundershirt (aff link) on all walks this week.
2. Instead of walking both Linus and Stetson I took Linus out on his own.
3. I did not use Linus’ head collar on his walks and just attached the leash to his regular flat collar.

First of all we did a great job keeping up with my 30 day challenge of walking the dogs 30 minutes every day this past week.  The problem was the time we went for our walks.  5 out of 7 days this past week we didn’t get out until after 10pm and therefore encountered very few dogs on our walks.

Here’s what I observed on our walks:

• Linus did a great job focusing on me and his walk rather than the other dogs we saw while out and about.  GOOD BOY!
• Linus didn’t chase any squirrels, rabbits, or ducks, but then again I don’t think we saw any either.  GOOD BOY!
• Linus seemed a little more stressed on our walks this past week.  That’s unusual considering he was wearing his Thundershirt, but I wonder if it has to do with one of the other changes specifically walking on his own rather than with his pal Stetson.  I may have to test that theory out next week.
• Linus was at the front door with my gf and started barking, lunging, and whining at the neighbors dogs.  Major regression!  This is another problem that needs to be addressed.

Overall it was an uneventful week mainly because I didn’t get Linus out during the daytime.  There were mixed results with the Thundershirt (aff link), but we’ll continue to use it on Linus’ walk…if anything it probably keeps him a little bit warmer during this cold spell.  So I guess the answer to our original question: Does The Thundershirt Solve Dog Leash Aggression Problems?MAYBE…we need more data for a more conclusive answer.

I’m going to try a few different things on our walks next week.  I’m going to alternate bringing Stetson out on our walks.  When I walk both boys I have to use the head collars because when Linus decides to chase a squirrel Stetson follows and I get dragged along for the ride.  I also plan on introducing a no-pull harness to see if I like that better than the head collar.

That’s about it for week #2 of Linus and his adventures in dog leash aggression training.  Not too much progress this week, but hopefully we’ll improve by leaps and bounds in week #3!

So how about you guys?  Any progress in your dog leash aggression training?  Tell us about it in the comment section below.

Post from: Puppy Training

Does The Thundershirt Solve Dog Leash Aggression Problems?

Thinking of adopting a new pet, but already have a pet of the opposite species at home? By planning ahead and setting everyone in your home up for success, your chances of a great interaction are much more likely.

Before you even begin your search, determine the features you think would make a new pet well-suited to your resident furry friend. Sit down, and write a list of the key features you think you need in your new dog or cat, as well as the features you may want avoid. I’ve provided some general tips below, but none are hard and fast. Know there are exceptions to every rule!

First, make a list of what you want in your new pet

Is your resident cat is fearful or shy, and will run when startled? Then you may want a dog that is laid back with a very low (or no!) prey drive, who will ignore kitty. I would recommend a calm adult, or even a senior. Sight hounds or herding breeds are less likely to be a match.

Do you have a rambunctious, high-energy, playful dog? Steer clear of fearful, shy cats who will run when afraid, as well as young kittens or seniors who may be accidently injured. You will probably want to look for a playful, confident adolescent or young adult kitty -– preferably one who has lived with dogs previously. But be wary of TOO energetic a cat, as they may rile your dog up too much.

If your dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten, or otherwise bother the other pet. Consider a senior!

Do you have a dog who is obsessive about chasing things? Or a dog that chases, pins, picks-up or otherwise “manhandles” other animals? Maybe your dog growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at cats? A cat is probably not a good choice. You might want to consider getting another dog, or perhaps no pet at all.

Now, hit the shelter — with a friend!

Now that you have a list, enlist the help of an objective friend who knows your resident pet well, and is also savvy with the species you are searching for. Bring them and your list when you visit your local shelter (or breeder).

As soon as you arrive, review your list! Don’t be tempted by all the cute fuzzies before you. Choose your new pet based on personality and not on looks.

When you think you’ve found the perfect playmate for your pet, spend time in a quiet area the pet is comfortable in. Play, interact, touch, and talk to them. Be sure to spend at least half an hour with the little fella. I don’t recommend bringing your dog into the shelter to meet the cats, because neither will be acting the way they would at home. It simply is not that informative.

Sleep on your decision

If you are confident you’ve found the perfect choice, you may be able to adopt on the spot. But in most cases, I recommend sleeping on it. Go home, interact with your resident pets, and think long and hard. Also, be sure you can bring the new pet back if things don’t work out with the resident pet.

While you are thinking on the new pet, you can kill time by preparing the house. Set up several hiding spots for kitty in each room. Include both low spots where dogs can’t follow, as well as high spots where dogs can’t reach. Ensure kitty food and litter boxes are where dogs can’t access –- until you know your new pet gets along with your resident. Be sure to include at least two boxes on each level of your house, with boxes in kitty’s favorite rooms to ensure they always have access.

Sleep on it. Photo: Spaniel puppy and kitten by Shutterstock

How to handle the first meeting

Now it’s time for the first meeting. This step can make or break the deal. When done incorrectly, it can really ruin an otherwise great relationship.

When bringing home a new dog, be sure to keep him on leash at all times. Ensure he is really exercised and tired before coming home. Have lots of dog treats handy to reward the dog as soon as he sees the kitty. Likewise, have a can of kitty food or tuna at hand for rewarding the cat whenever the dog is near. Go slow, and keep the dog on leash at ALL times until you are confident there will be no unsolicited chasing. This may take days. Always monitor interactions, and when you can’t keep an eye on things, ensure the dog is confined.

NEVER put the kitty in a carrier or hold it down so the dog can sniff it. Many cats will find this to be a highly unpleasant experience and this rarely ever works out well –- unless the cat would never have a problem with it, anyway.

“Oh hey cool, I’ve got a new partner in crime!” Photo: Cat and dog looking for meat in the refrigerator by Shutterstock

Watch and learn

Watch all pets closely, as you will likely see their relationships change significantly over the course of the first month. Never punish one for not liking the other pet, as it will make the situation worse. Can you imagine if you got in trouble for not liking someone? It would probably make you like them even less!

If you have any concerns, contact a pro right away. APDT’s Trainer Search is a great way to find a trainer. If you see any aggression, contact someone who understands cat and dog behavior. The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants is an excellent resource for finding a behavior consultant.

As your pets adapt to each other, remember you are responsible with keeping all pets happy, safe, and low-stress. Just because you like the new pet doesn’t mean your resident pet does. If your resident pet isn’t happy, do something about it. If you do your research, choose an appropriate new companion, and introduce everyone properly, you have a much greater chance of everything working out great.

About the Author: Katenna Jones is the director of educational programs for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and volunteers as a responder for Red Star Animal Emergency Services. She is the author of Fetching the Perfect Dog Trainer: Getting the Best for You and Your Dog and received the Animals as Other Nations Award (2012), from the International Animal Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. 

Source

In December, I thought it would be fun to get a picture of my dogs with Santa. A local pet-friendly establishment was offering photos, and when it was our turn, I walked my dogs, Sylvie and Sarge, toward the man in the red suit.

Sylvie approached Santa with a loose body, relaxed wagging tail, and open mouth, her ears in a neutral position. Her body language said she was comfortable. On the other hand, Sarge’s body language communicated a different message. He cautiously approached with his head and tail lowered, and with his mouth closed, and as he got closer, the hair on his back raised. Sarge was saying, “I’m not comfortable with this strange bearded person in a furry suit.”

My “jolly routine” (speaking in an upbeat, happy manner) didn’t affect his emotional state, so rather than allow my dog to continue to be stressed and pushing him to accept something he was wary of, I calmly escorted my dogs away.

An important part of responsible pet ownership is understanding your dog’s body language. Dogs communicate with their faces, ears, eyes, eyebrows, tails — their entire bodies. I have learned to “listen” to my dogs, to the extent possible, in every interaction with other dogs and people, including with myself. Here are several reasons for the importance of understanding dog body-language.

1. Understanding body language can keep everyone safe

We should understand dog body-language to help keep ourselves, our dogs, and other people and dogs safe. Every dog has the equivalent of a dangerous weapon in their mouth — teeth. How they wield that weapon is affected by their genetics, environment, and training. Regardless, it is vital that we be able to read a dog to prevent and avoid potential conflict.

When Sarge’s hackles went up, I immediately felt a sense of urgency to diffuse the potential conflict. Rather than react in emotion, such as nervously apologizing to Santa or, worse, yelling at Sarge (which would just add more anxiety to the situation), I cheerily called Sarge to me (which we have practiced hundreds of times) and redirected him away from the situation. Not that Sarge has ever bitten, but I never want to push him into a situation where he felt like he didn’t have another other option. What if Santa had made a sudden movement, or moved his hand toward Sarge? With a dog already in an emotional state of caution, anything could tip the scales into further defensive action on the part of the dog.

There was a time when I misunderstood dog body-language and I missed the precursors of aggressive behavior, which later developed into a serious behavior problem. Had I been aware that my dog was feeling uncomfortable or behaving defensively, I could have addressed the root of the problem with help from a trainer before the behavior escalated. Trainer Sara Reusche writes, “When a dog bites, he’s often told us in every way he could how upset he was, and been ignored. Sometimes a bite is the only way he has of letting us know what’s wrong.”

2. It can reduce stress

It is important to understand your dog’s body language so that he is not exposed to unnecessary amounts of stress. Just as with people, stress in dogs can cause health and behavioral problems.

Sylvie’s yawn may indicate she’s stressed.

There are many specific ways that dogs display stress: a yawn, a lip lick, sweaty paws, dilated pupils, freezing, food refusal. When I recognize these signs, I try to determine the cause of the stress and possibly deal with it through training or management to help my dogs relax. Through training, I can help my dog change his underlying emotional reaction toward something or someone, and through management, I can minimize my dog’s stressors.

3. It helps with communication

Understanding your dog’s body language is key to your relationship with your dog. Relationships are built on and sustained by communication. Communication goes both ways — we should strive to “listen” to our dogs just as we want our dogs to listen to us. When my dog shakes off after I hug him, I should be aware that I just did something that made him uncomfortable. When entering a new place, if I notice that my dog suddenly moves slowly and has muscle bulges by his mouth and eye, I may have to adjust my pace or plans for the benefit of my dog.

Keep in mind that to dogs, vocal communication is secondary to body language, that is, they primarily communicate by body language. In dog training, we have a term called “trainer babble.” These are all the words that dogs tune out, because they can only focus on so much at a time. If you are moving and talking at the same time, your dog is responding more to your body movement than to your words, because the movement is more salient, meaning it will overshadow your words.

There are many good resources available for learning about the rich and complex language of dogs. Stanley Coren explains in his wonderful book How To Speak Dog about the multi-faceted forms of canine communication, and includes his version of a “Doggish Phrasebook.” An excellent DVD on the subject is called What Is My Dog Saying? by Carol Byrnes.

The more we understand dog body-language, the better we will understand and appreciate these remarkable creatures.

Dogster readers: Are you listening to your dog?

Source

Dingle Tower

The key landmark of the Dingle is Sir Sandford Flemming Tower shown here:

The great thing about the Dingle is that there are a few different and beautiful areas to go while you are there.

There is a great beach that you can go to and it makes for a great walk along the water.   There is a path that you can take in either direction for a very scenic experience.

You can also go visit the Frog Pond.  If you want to go directly to the Frog pond, you can park in the lot on Purcell’s Cove Road and walk there.  Everything in the area is all inter-connected so you can visit it all at once, so don’t worry about having to drive to visit the different areas although that is an option if you like.

Bayside trail

The beach has enough of an open area that you can play fetch and get your dog’s legs stretched out.  It has a great view of the harbour and isn’t far from the yacht club so you will see lots of beautiful  boats.

The Dingle building is a great piece of Halifax History and is a must to see.  Out in front of the tower are two big statues of lions that are always fun to get pictures with.

Pictured to the left is a trail along the water you can walk on.  The trail is well maintained and makes for relaxing easy walk.

Directions:

Beach – Off of the Purcell’s Cove Road, turn at the “Flemming Park” sign and take your next left at the “Dingle Park Area”.  At the bottom of this road is where you will find the Parking lot.

Frog Pond – Continue past the “Flemming Park” sign and on your left you will find a parking area.  You can go that way or walk down to the trail from there.